Pennine Lines w/c 24 April 2023
|| Last cool snap? || Brace yourself for May ||
Glass Slipper || Climber: Kieran Mercer
|| A Hidden Classic ||
Glass Slipper
The woods at the north end of Froggatt were for too long overlooked, but in recent years have seen some new development attention and produced some really great lines. Despite relatively easy access and offering some chance of shade on a warm day it’s rarely anything other than very quiet there. The feeling of peace is enhanced further right now since the road under their crag is currently closed. In the context of recent developments Glass Slipper is a relatively elderly problem, but it’s just as technically demanding as it ever was. It looks simple enough - just handrail up the slanting arête - but it’s no formality, and the final flat hold can feel a long way off on the last move.
Confession time; when I decided to bin all non-topout problems off my Grit Blocs list it was with some regret. But also relief, because it meant I didn’t have to confront my Glass Slipper issue. The issue being namely that I found it quite hard, thin on the feet, and then had a complete nightmare trying to descend the slab to get off. The old chipped holds were all the wrong place, dirty, and to cut a long story short I felt like I’d climbed badly. Despite trying to be objective, such experiences can colour your view of a problem or route. But since then I’ve had a few conversations, seen others on it, and am at peace with it now I know it’s genuinely no pushover. And yes, the descent can catch you out, especially if you’re no longer above your pads.
However much of a hard time it gives you it’s hard to stay annoyed for too long when just next door lies Downes' Crack, one of the nicest layback flakes you’ll ever see on a VS route. It’s a great solo if you’ve got any confidence left in the tank.
Arête finesse, and good old combined tactics for the win || Climber: Shauna Coxsey
Barrow Stones || Climber: Adam Long
|| Focus on.... ||
Bank Holiday carnage
May is just around the corner, and the Bank Holiday cup truly runneth over. What else is going to runneth over? Well, the parking around Stanage and Burbage for a start, as well as many of the most popular spots around the country. Expect similar chaos at Raven Tor, Wimberry, Almscliff, The Roaches, the Llanberis Pass etc.
So at this time of year it can pay to think outside of the box a little if you’re either travelling to, or live near to, the popular hotspots on these long weekends. This photographer isn’t down with that whole like-Glastonbury-if-they-forgot-to-put-the-fence-up vibe, and frankly resents even having to queue for a 99, so thoughts will definitely turn to finding some quieter spots. Those who’ve got Grit Blocs might already have a few ideas from reading that, or do you now assume everywhere in the book will now be mobbed by purile tickers? Have I just ruined the Peak for myself? I hope not. I am using this email to jockey for a quiet day somewhere by passively promoting other crags? We’ll see.
Relative quiet away from the Popular End, Stanage || Climber: Julia Mariella
Even if you find yourself at a popular spot there’s a sort of inverse-square law going on, and hence walking twice as far from the car usually rewards you with only 25% of the busyness, if that. Even at the likes of Stanage there’s usually plenty of quiet spots to enjoy a route or a problem or two, especially if you can strike early or turn up late - and be rewarded with cooler conditions too.
For those willing to walk a little further might look to the Yorkshire crags with the longer approaches and epic scenery - Simon’s Seat, Lord’s Seat, Rylstone and Roova spring to mind - for quality rock, expansive views and solitude. But even in the Peak there’s loads to go at. Kinder Scout still hasn’t given away all its bouldering secrets just yet. Grinah Stones too mainstream for you now? Try Barrow Stones for some quality scrittley esoterica with big views out over Kirklees and beyond.
In all seriousness though, wherever you end up on the Bank Holidays don't be that person who parks like an idiot. If climbers can set a good example when it comes to responsible outdoor use (and that includes litter, toilet use, dogs on leads, no fires, not playing music etc) then other may follow, and it always stands us in good stead one way or another.
Grinah Stones || Climber: Jon Fullwood
|| Recently through the lens ||
April showers in the Burbage Valley, and Shauna Coxsey on Old King Cascade in the shady woods of Froggatt
|| Fresh Prints ||
At opposite end of the roadside access spectrum, here's two of the recent prints on sale. The Grinah shot is a personal favourite and was in the running for Grit Blocs cover at one point. And the Froggatt Bridge shot shows a different view that we've all passed by many times.
