The most famous Gritstone edge of them all, justifiably popular, FRIENDLY aspect, but always with quiet spots to be found.

Primarily famous for the sheer multitude of superb trad routes, Stanage is also home to some of the most iconic boulder problems on gritstone - Careless Torque, Crescent Arete, Deliverance etc. The main hub for mid grade trad routes is the well-named Popular End, closest to the road, but with over three miles of near-continuous buttresses and boulders to explore it’s never that hard to find a bit of your own space.

It suffers somewhat from extreme popularity at times, with some polished routes, worn gear placements, receding landings and parking chaos on busy summer weekends. However, topping out that final trad route or boulder problem of the day in the vivid glowing last light of a Stanage evening is a magical rite of passage that never fades no matter how many times you experience it.

Key Facts

Climbing - Natural gritstone, a few old quarried bays - trad, bouldering, 1000s of lines

Aspect - South West, exposed

Popularity - High

Season - All year

Difficulty - Beginner to expert, especially mid grades

Accessibility - 5-20mins walk, rough paths, mainly uphill

Speciality - Unforgettable sunsets